一.    2011年11月10日在宏村享受農家宴後,逕往安徽黃山市而行。遊覽車到達黃山市大門外的湯口時,換乘當地汽車經“黃山大門”沿盤山公路蜿蜒之行到達雲穀站(索道站)開始遊賞黃山怪石、奇松、雲海。我們有幸在藍天白雲溫陽照耀之下來到黃山,揮別杭州的細雨霏霏,來到皖南黃山山青秀麗的懷抱中。緣於初次上黃山,而且全陪或地陪只陪同登嶺,在陡坡險階中一步一步的登階而上,較少介紹行程中的每一個景點,因此只就記憶以及數位相機之照片,夾雜記載黃山二日的行程與感受了。因為尚在病情康復中,不想過度疲累,因此僱請挑夫利用轎子(藤椅即滑干)坐上黃山,沿途觀賞,也看盡了沿路遊山人的言語戲弄。他們說:“好爽呀!”或者說:“很幸福也”。其實一趟黃山滑干之行代價不可謂不高。

二.    據黃山地陪說,唐代唐明皇天寶之年(747年),將黟(音衣)山改名為黃山以張軒轅黃帝在黟山煉丹並羽化成仙的典故。其實黃山是燕山造山運動由岩漿噴發而形成的花崗岩組成,山峰岩石以紫色或白米色為主,黃山第一高峰為蓮花峰,海拔1873公尺,因未實際登嶺,改走另一斜路往第一天夜宿地點玉屏樓賓館而前進。有人說黃山景區自天空鳥瞰其形狀如同一片海棠葉子,“湯口”就是葉尖,“太平”就像葉柄,從“輔村”到“北海”至“玉屏樓”下到“湯口”的一條山道就是葉脈,而飄浮在雲海之中的葉汁,它的根就是徽州(今之黃山)土地。

黃山號稱人間仙境,素有“一座仙山,兩頂桂冠,三奇四絕,五海,六區,七十二峰之特色”。所謂一座仙山,因謂黃山為真正人間仙境,黃帝煉丹羽化成仙之地。兩頂桂冠為世界文化與自然、文化雙項遺產,也為世界地質公園。三奇即奇松、怪石、雲海。四絕則三奇另加溫泉。在玉屏樓前有迎客松,壽逾千年,樹高十米有奇,另在往北海路上亦可看到團結松,五幹環抱,簇擁而生,狀如兄弟,故而得名,樹齡約300年。其餘名松,更可謂無松不奇,從滑干看出,光禿岩壁上黃山松茁壯生長,有些高不盈尺,低僅數寸,愈短愈老,愈小愈奇。至於怪石更可說是無石不怪,在往西海途中可看到飛來石,其餘怪石眾多可謂巧石天成,不可思議,移步變景,造化精妙。而雲海更因黃山為雲霧之鄉,全年雲霧天氣平均達250多天,而呈現層層疊雲的雲海奇景。我在清涼台望北海更有雲以山為體,山以雲為衣,天河傾瀉之感。五海即黃山景區分成玉屏樓前為南海(或前海),白鵝嶺下為東海,海心亭周稱天海,排雲亭西叫西海,清涼台下為北海(或後海)。至於六區則為溫泉區、玉屏景區、北海景區、雲谷景區、松谷景區、白雲景區。其中玉屏景區以玉屏樓為中心,它涵蓋天都峰、玉屏峰、蓮花峰等黃山旅遊精華地區,且為黃山最高地域。玉屏樓古為“文殊院”,古有“不到文殊院,不見黃山面”,目前玉屏樓賓館就座落在文殊院舊址上。另一個旅遊精華區為北海景區,包含黃山北海與西海大片地域,而北海賓館是為中心。北海景區含始信峰,散花塢、清涼台等景點。西海則有排雲亭、飛來石、光明頂、鰲魚峰等景點。我在挑夫滑干行進中,偶有下來欣賞景點,因此玉屏樓、迎客松、清涼台、飛來石、光明頂、鰲魚峰等景點均留有大量照片。黃山七十二峰,是謂黃岳群峰,不可數計,峰林似海,群峭摩天。本團有半數人員登山黃山第一高峰蓮花峰,海拔1864公尺,而第二高峰光明頂,海拔1860公尺,站在崗頂上,只見一片平台,怪不得武俠小說會撰作五大門派決戰光明頂的情節,上山已難,高手在此比武。就是毅力與武功的校比,而光明頂旁有氣象站。第三高峰為天都峰,海拔1810公尺,另外依登山階梯路而經過的尚有鰲魚峰,海拔1780公尺,始信峰,海拔1083公尺,本團亦有多位人員親踏斯地。

三.  我們於深秋來此,有些林木枯黃,只剩黃山松挺立傲長,而黃山四大名旦,“黃山木土鵑,黃山木蘭,黃山望春花與天女花”,則有賴春暖花開時節方得見芳蹤了。

黃山秋景可說是“翠壑丹崖千丈畫,白雲紅葉一溪詩”,但因係冬初要見“一夜寒風起,萬樹銀花開”的描述,恐怕再過一段時間方可見到。

旅行之前敬畏黃山登山險地,陡坡階梯,上過光明頂、清涼台,直有登高而小天下之感覺。夜宿“黃山獅林酒店”,深夜溫度6℃,飯店強調環保,

沒有冷暖氣,窩在被中,取出旅行小札,記下二日感懷:

「徽州鄉情,濃似美酒,旅者醉倒在青瓦粉牆婉約的江南,

黃山怪石、奇松、雲海,造物精妙,不可思議,

飛來石、玉屏樓、光明頂、清涼台,…,迎客松,白雲枯葉一溪詩,

軒轅煉丹的神話,政治人物的足跡,騷人墨客的詩文,

摩岩石刻,天梯,脊樑鋪成的山路,索道,

“江山如此多嬌”分外奪目,

眼見奇松怪石,可說岩有此性,說者不信,真正妙絕,到者方知,

黃山也有解密謎團,

迎客松斷臂,溫泉流血,野人,黃山虎滅絕,飛來石重量,

火燒天都峰,花山迷窟,山腳下的恐龍化石…,

都是行銷黃山的好題材,

我從黃山回來,羈戀雲海,擁抱奇松,際會諸峰,尤其是光明頂,

尋情覓愛的連心鎖,

到清涼台回歸自然,是清涼世界

他日再來?恐在未定之天。」

2011.11.12

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us



Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us
創作者介紹

jstaiwan

jstaiwan 發表在 痞客邦 PIXNET 留言(0) 人氣()