(二).  12月2日

  • •   那智瀑布—飛瀧神社,為“紀伊山地靈場與參詣道”之世界文化遺產,位於和歌山縣。

“那智瀑布”落差133公尺,寬度13公尺,為日本第一大瀑布,作為熊野那智大社的別宮,飛瀧神社自古以來即受景仰。瀑布、河川、巨石結合隱有神宿之地,此種自然崇拜,現世淨土之追求旅人心中更覺溫暖。瀑布氣勢磅礡,於下方建有“飛瀧神社”,可上望宏偉水勢及隆隆水聲。鳥居前巨石刻石春畦居士詩文:“百尺喬杉擁嶽戲,風翻素練半空垂,山中之日不知苦,巨瀑真成天下奇”。

  • •   “熊野本宮”—2004年7月“紀伊山地之靈場與參詣道”登錄為世界遺產,熊野本宮大社最受注目。

中古世紀由京都到中京名古屋(原尾張國),有三條熊野古道,目前列入世界遺產,而三條古道均可到達熊野本宮大社,其一為“熊野古道紀伊路”,經熊野古道中邊路到達本宮,第二為“大峰奧驅道”直接到達本宮,三為“熊野古道伊勢路”,亦可直抵本宮,而所謂“熊野三社”即“熊野本宮大社”、“熊野速玉大社”與“熊野那智大社”(含那智山岸渡寺),古道青苔菁石階路,鬱蒼柳杉鉅木,歷史文化遺緒,令旅人靜靜悠思。由鳥居到達本宮,石階158階,可沿途欣賞古木參天,千百年石板階路,在寺前拿出日幣100元,取得護摩本一支,投入香爐內祈求全家平安,而寺區內到處可看到紅葉滿天,楓紅落地甚為美麗。“熊野本宮大社”往左供奉牟須美與速玉,中間是主神家津御子神,右邊為天照大神,原本熊野本宮建立在大齋原的小洲上,因免遭洪患而移建於此,目前仍持續千年參拜而不絕。

  • •    “串本海中公園”—位於和歌山縣東牟婁郡串本町。

本團參觀水族館與海中展望塔,水族館直接引進透明溫暖的黑潮水質,直接射進的太陽光在水槽裡,重現串本美麗的海中景觀與生長在那裡魚類的生態環境,其中斑紋鳶魟與海龜悠閒遊著,令旅人留步觀賞。海中展望塔,離岸140公尺,水深6.3公尺是一個可以觀賞海中各種魚類與珊瑚的最好觀察點,據資料稱可看到270種以上的魚類。

  • •    “潮岬”

為本州最南端,約30公尺的斷崖上,建有白色的潮岬燈塔,百多年來守護海上過往船隻,平安順航。冬季來此可看到太陽落入水平線之美景。潮岬立碑處正後方立有“顯彰碑”,其後鉅木茂盛,草坪泛黃,海風吹拂倍覺涼冷。

  • •    “橋杭岩”

在串本海岸邊約有40多大小不等、形狀不同的巨石,成一直線列在海中,形同橋墩,遠方視之如同橋墩狀豎立在海中驚濤駭浪中。相傳弘法大師空海與魔鬼相鬥,其求助菩薩相助造橋通往海中之大島,但魔鬼稱若於雞鳴前不能造橋成功,則空海和尚即應放棄造橋之念頭,空海在菩薩幫助之下急速趕上,但魔鬼則施詭計,提前以雞鳴方式報曉,空海只得放棄,而留下此一殘存之橋墩巨石。故事告訴了旅人,真誠有時卻被愚弄而不自知。在橋杭岩前方有一饅頭名店,購滿之旅人非常踴躍。

夜宿“南記勝浦溫泉浦島飯店”可享受六種風味不同,景觀互異的泉湯:忘歸洞、瀧之湯、玄武洞、磯之湯、遙峰之湯和天海之湯。

(三).  12月3日

  • •   三段壁—南紀白濱名勝之ㄧ“三段壁洞窟”,位於和歌山西牟婁郡白濱町。

本處斷崖像屏風一樣,豎立在濃綠的海面上,高約50至60公尺的懸崖絕壁,其岩層深處為海蝕洞窟,它曾是戰國時代熊野水軍的藏船處,站立洞口可以體會大自然景象、千古神秘與歷史浪漫。在日本第50代恒武天皇時代,有以熊野沿岸為據點之海賊,當時“三段窟”名為“見壇”(在日語中,見壇與三段發音相同),在洞窟中設置了通往地下36公尺的電梯,可從接近海面到地殼深層洞窟宛如周遊地獄的冒險。本處可觀賞浪痕岩,是洞窟頂的紋狀,被波浪捶打形成,“熊野水軍崗哨小屋”,本為熊野水軍藏船處,“十象岩”在洞窟內可展望巨大之岩石,像極一隻鹰展翅,“吹潮岩”,在洞窟對面之岩壁,因下方有一空洞,滾來波浪的壓力像鯨魚一樣颳起數米高的水潮。“弁才天”,率領十六童子,弁才天為水神,亦為神社佛閣之守護神,也為膜拜者帶來幸福平安。“三段壁”外頭有“文殊堂神社”,亦頗為古樸可順道參訪。

  • •    千疊敷

伸入太平洋海域巨大岩石表面,退潮時呈露部分面積大於千張榻榻米總和之岩面,號稱“千疊敷”。米黃色海岸岩石伸入海中,其上光滑,但岩層層次分明,受海浪拍擊,偶會激起浪花,因係向太平洋海岸前傾,是巨型坡道砂岩層,這塊凹凸不平的岩層,屬第三紀層的軟砂岩,長期受巨浪侵蝕而成,與“三段壁”同為白濱町代表性的雄偉景點,由千疊敷到台北,距離1640公里。

  • •    圓月島

位於白濱町海岸前方海中,島嶼長35公尺,寬約130公尺,高25公尺,彷彿飄浮在海上的一葉小舟,平坦的岩礁中央有一個圓型的海蝕洞,直如圓月故名之。在秋末來此可從海蝕圓月洞觀望日落奇景。

  • •    紀三井寺—位於和歌山市紀三井寺,係日本西邊第2號寺閣,為救世觀音宗總本山。

在和歌山寺東南名草山之中斷山腹建立之“紀三井寺”,古時曾被稱為“金剛寶寺”、“護國院”,為日本西邊33所觀音靈場第2號寺閣所在,始建於奈良朝時代迄今已逾千年,第65代花山天皇曾於此落髮出家入佛門修行。本寺樓門建於西元771年,雖於1509年修建,但仍保留室町時代的特徵建築格式。由樓門沿石階而上,共計231階,本石階,女士以33階、男士42階作為除消厄運之數。而第三段為“還曆厄除階”計有60階,走登寺前可俯瞰和歌浦灣,只見海面波濤層層進逼海岸。在石階中有一“結緣坡”,古時有一孝行者,背負其母赴紀三井寺禮佛,在登階時將其鞋子掉下來,但幸經神社宮女為其撿拾而結緣,後孝行者整船運輸生意成功,而謂之“結緣坡”。此外紀三井寺之“三井水”亦因寺內自然湧出清泉而得名,且此水可解除一切罪垢。芭蕉俳句刻石至今已逾310餘年,在1688年詩人芭蕉旅行高野山在當時已著名之紀三井寺吟詠俳句而刻石立碑。“六角堂”,此堂已建約250年,為登階231石階後可參訪此堂。此外景點另有“多寶塔”(建於1441年)、“鐘樓”(建於1588年),至於本堂則供奉本尊十一面觀世音菩薩,約建於1230年間,為唐式風格之佛寺。景區內佛像石座、石刻碑文甚多,且紅葉處處,寺前櫻花綠葉落盡,花蕊新吐,來春開放將蔚為勝景。

  • •    黑潮市場

位於和歌山市海邊,為填海造地之新生區,是海鮮集散市集,除新鮮海產外,尚有和歌山特產如梅子、柑橘、柿子等出售,本團亦於此等候黑鮪魚解體秀,可惜時間受限而提早離開,因午後4:30夕日落海,天地昏黑,下個旅程將受限制,故提早離開。

  • •    和歌山城—為德川御三家之ㄧ紀州藩城堡

戰國時代豐臣秀吉平定紀州後,命令築城,而雄偉城池與城樓頂上之天守閣為眺望和歌山市全景之最佳去處,城內展示昔日武士裝備。和歌山城前方為“西之丸庭園” 又稱“紅葉溪庭園”為欣賞楓紅絕勝之地。在一泓塘水邊,古木參天,紅葉開遍於綠樹上空,美景天成,小橋流水,映影池上,一種景色兩樣風華。步入城堡區,大塊石頭構建城牆,滿地紅葉落地,城堡雄偉壯觀,櫻花已落葉頗為蕭瑟,幸有紅楓展現美艷,為初冬帶來溫暖,堡外銀杏黃色葉片正顯興旺,飽滿葉片直垂飄搖,處在櫻花、楓樹之間,更顯其優雅本色。

和歌山城之大平門始建於德川時代,1796年由“一之橋御門”改稱,岡口門建於1621年為江戶時代建造物,御橋廊下為“二之丸”與“西之瓦”行走架設之橋,其為橋屋形式亦為江戶時代建築格式,“二之丸”為藩役人、藩主私邸,本丸建於標高48.9公尺的虎伏山,為要塞型態。1585年豐臣秀吉命其弟豐臣秀長在和歌山築城,1586年秀長之家臣桑山重晴為三萬石和歌山城主桑山氏在14年間將和歌山城本丸建構完成。1619年德川家康命其第十男德川賴宣(55.5萬石)入主,從此和歌山城為德川御三家(水戶、尾張、紀州)居住之城堡之ㄧ,並為幕府西國支配之據點,德川賴宣入主後又大事翻修整建,並加予擴充,奠立了250年間和歌山城的繁榮基礎。

註:和歌山城—德川家康(初代將軍)命其第十子德川賴宣入主,為和歌山城初代藩主,二代為光貞、三代綱教,四代賴職、五代吉宗(亦為江戶幕府八代征夷大將軍,以上為光貞派下)六代宗直、七代宗將、八代重倫、九代治貞、十代治寶(以上為賴純派下,其與光貞為兄弟),十一代齊順、十二代齊疆、十三代慶福(以上為光貞派下)、十四代茂承(為賴純—西條松平家派下)。

  • •   最後一日即12月4日晨起由奈良縣天理市驅車返回名古屋,並先在免稅店選購物品,隨後轉往電視塔地下街商場逛街,於午餐後專車送中部國際機場飛回台灣。

後記:主辦本次旅行之立益旅行社(台北市松江路220號6樓607室,電話02-2571-4277)服務水平至佳,行程安排,景點介紹,溫泉泡湯,各餐美食可謂名符其實,溫泉美食之旅,尤其熊野古道所屬世界文化遺產之參訪,和歌山城,伊勢神宮,那智瀑布,熊野本宮,紀三井寺以及太平洋沿岸奇岩怪石等之觀賞與林導遊對典故解說令人回味無窮。

2011.12.4



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