一•旅遊日本中部的第三天與第四天下午,分別參訪自長野縣的扇澤利用多種交通工具到達隔鄰富山縣的黑部水庫、大觀峰、室堂(雪壁奇景)、美女平直抵立山的立山黑部阿爾卑斯山道。㐧四天下午則自富山縣的宇奈月溫泉站搭乘黑部峽谷鐵道(覌光小火車)觀賞中部山岳國立公園黑部峽谷即北阿爾卑斯立山連峰、後立山連峰包夾黑部川形成的峽谷,其間經過柳橋、森石、黑薙、笹平、出平、貓又、鍾釣、小屋平到達櫸平等站。這二條覌光路線形成倒「T」字型的旅遊道路。這就是享譽旅遊界的黑部立山觀光路線。

二•在八世紀時,到越中國赴仼的大伴家持行走立山連峰感動於高山壯麗景觀,詩興大發遂詠詩:「立山積雪,常年皆可望。百看興不盡,似是有神相。」今日來此觀看雪景,連峰山巒巍巍神威,怪不得立山被稱之為神山。本團旅遊路線係由黑部反方向抵達立山,本路線指立山到扇澤車站間於每年四月中旬到十一月末封山前運行的高山之旅。山道之間標高相差2450m,由多樣交通工具聯結利用䌫車、高原巴士、無軌電車,空中索道䌫車以及徒步黑部水庫壩頂等,可以暢遊八個景區的山岳觀光路線。本團自扇澤搭乘無軌電車(6•1km)到黑部水庫,途中只見高山積雪未退,全境山區白茫茫一片,帶上太陽眼鏡免被白雪亮光影響視線。徒步水庫壩頂(0•6km),適逢雨勢擴大,突覚寒冷異常,只好加快腳步避入洞窟內,但壩內湖水平靜無波,洽如一面明鏡平披在峽谷之間。壩堤之外,河水乾枯,但卻冰雪未融,直如小溪中被巨大白色岩石阻擋,水勢緩流,水庫中可乘遊艇環湖覌景,但本團無此安排,只好拍照存參。接著換乘䌫車(0•8km)到黑部湖,再利用空中索道䌫車(1•7km)到黑部平,隨転無軌電車(3•7km)抵大觀峰,再換乘高原巴士(23km)到室堂,徒步覌賞道路兩旁冰封雪壁(600m),這是本路線最值覌光之地,也是冰雪奇景,車站區內都在販售富山當地土產,並以地酒(當地所產之酒),以及封面印有雷鳥的糕點製品為𣈱銷產品。再転搭立山䌫車(1•3km)到立山。在日本與富士山、白山併稱為三大靈山之一的立山,位於中部山岳國立公園的北阿爾卑斯,連綿起伏的雄壯山胍以及蜿蜒上行到超過三千公尺的峰頂,可欣賞每刻天候瞬間転變的自然百態,而遊飛於山毛櫸的野鳥、生存於高山區的黑熊、山羊等動物,綻放於白雲冰雪間的高山花卉以及自然保護珍禽的雷鳥(據說數量甚少不容易看到,有一說只有六百多隻),而山坡的植被,多樣性的生物充分演繹著生命的旋律,這就是自然的樂章生命的意義。


三•黑部立山連峰幾個重要景點簡述如下:在興建黑部川第四発電站時,攔截御前澤形成人工黑部湖,西側有立山連峰,東側則是後立山連峰,聳立的群山間隙中憑添延伸翡翠綠的湖面,𡶶巒冰雪積存未融化,今日細雨紛飛更添寒意。黑部水庫壩高186m,堤長492m,是日本第一拱壩式水庫,1956年關西電力公司將保護自然環境為首要考慮下,耗資513億日元,一千萬人力終於工程完竣於1963年6月,當時被稱為世紀大工程,目前黑部湖綠寶石色的湖水碧波蕩漾,與北阿爾卑斯山脈融合一體,已是令人著迷的優美名勝景區。看看滿天飛雪,白色大地,雖說冷風襲臉,𨚫掃不掉熱情賞雪的興緻。
大覌峰標高2316m,春綠期間蒞此參觀,冰雪與青翠共榮,空中索道視野寬廣,又是白雪青山緑水舖滿大地山巒之間。倘若秋季來此鐵定火紅一片,楓紅紅葉將青色山胍佈置成嘉年華會般的燦爛。室堂為本觀光路線的中心點,標高2390m,四月開山以來,冰雪依然固立在山道兩旁,最高之雪壁高達15m,在風雨中漫步閒走眼中所見盡是白茫茫的雪花飄揚,今日有幸在四月間尚能欣賞雪花飛舞,已顧不得攝氏3度的低溫,趕緊與女兒走完600m的雪壁奇景,並拍攝了多張雪景,據說積雪有時高達18m以上,只見二部大型推土機走進積累厚雪的山道上,一點一點的削掉雪壁,除雪技術也令人嘆為觀止。冰封的山嶺、白雲和冰雪交會的場所,雪壁就是春雪的大谷,二旁高達15m的堅厚雪壁正等待新綠的滋潤。
四•次日午後離開金澤巿之後,転行到黑部峽谷,被稱為日本第一的V字峽。我們乘坐鐵道小火車(分為二種,一種是車箱型,但玻璃窗可以打開,另一種是祼空車體,相信夏天一定最受歡迎),從宇奈月車站出發到櫸平,一路可見氣勢磅礡的雄偉山峰,滾滾河水的深溝峽谷,高山植栽豐富,松樹、日本柳杉、楓樹、山毛櫸等綠意正盛,其中偶有未謝櫻花點綴其間,更增添活力的色彩。峽谷鐵道行駛在日本屈指可數的陡峭崖邊,而黑部峽谷之鐵道,途中有41個隧道、21座橋樑,全長20•1公里。鐵道沿著峭壁而建,因之橋樑、隧道、明隧道、以及類似棧道的特殊建築,全部集中在本路線了。沿途觀賞重要景點例如:新山彦橋,橋長166m,因火車行駛聲響形成山谷回音且回蕩在溫泉街而得名(日語中「山彥」係回音之意)。在黑薙車站區覌賞後曳橋,它是鐵路沿線最險峻峽谷上方架起的鐵橋,以往進山的人乍見幽深山谷不由自主止步後退而取名後曳。鍾釣車站周邊則有錦繡關與東鍾釣山,前者位於車站正前方的鍾釣橋一帶謂之錦繡關,是秋天覌賞紅葉勝地,今日來此新綠向榮,心情為之𣈱活不已。後者形如扣上巨大吊鍾的岩石,搭配上方積雪更有另一方風味。老鼠回頭崖,在貓又車站前方,高約二百米威風凜凜的巨大岩壁,即使老鼠被貓追捕到達石壁下方也得回頭,而其前方則是黑部川㐧二發電所。鍾釣站另一景點係萬年雪朓望台,此處平台可近距離覌看對岸到盛夏仍未消融的殘雪美景。此外,河原露天浴池歷史悠久,自1819年開設至今可說是聞名遐邇,在夏季依然可以眺望對岸山峰間的萬年雪。在櫸平站的前方路段上,是黑部川幹流中最狹窄的峽谷,因伝說野猴可以飛渡而過,故本段窄谷遂謂之猿飛峽,其河面寬僅三至四米,流水呈直角蜿蜒,繪出壯觀的「之」字型景緻。櫸平站另一景點為奧鐘山與奧鐘橋,從奧鐘山的巨大岩壁與櫸平火車站通往祖母谷之途中,架構一座高34m造型優美的橋樑,從河原瞭望台仰視此橋也是一道絶佳美景。還有車站對岸有一如同貓頭鷹的天然樹木,貓頭鷹日語發音為「不苦勞」(hukurou)或可祈禱遊玩平安幸福也。鐵道沿路山毛櫸、楓樹、松樹、柳樹等等北國名木,相互展示翠緑新裝,跟地面上隆起的積雪冰塊形成強烈的對比。笹平站區有販售土產的美女,小火車進站有了五分鐘的停留,旅客們紛紛上前購買土產或紀念品。本段鐵路之旅可來回乘坐加深對峽谷地貌的覌賞,我們懼於嵩直的岩壁,以及滾滾深谷流水,所幸鐵道小火車至是平穩安全,是旅人們所安心搭乘的。如今大正時期原始興建水庫發電的功能已實現,在1971年從關西電力公司獨立出來転變為覌光鐵道,転型成功也帶動黑部峽谷秘境覌光之旅。

五•當晚宿於本陣飯店,大庁擺設若干古董花瓶、杯盤,武士戰甲、神鼓與畫作等,也展現了飯店的文化氣息。飯店外置有足湯舘可享溫泉泡腳之樂,其旁則有如同合掌村的茅草屋頂木材屋,或可稍微減輕本次旅遊未親臨世遺合掌村的遺憾。
 
2012•05•10•記



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黑部峽谷鐵道 - 本陣飯店
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