今天(2012•05•11•)是本趟旅遊的㐧五天,清晨漫步在本陣溫泉飯店的前埕,路邊花徑繁花盛開,但小徑坡地冰雪厚積未消,團員中有些人急行到大約百公尺外的私邸拍攝櫻花飄飛的美景,我獨自踏步在球場邊緣,享受清晨的清新甜美氣息,還有那一份特有的寧靜,遠方高山處處皚皚白雪,空曠的山野坡地,芳草翠綠,還好今晨雨勢已停,但氣溫依舊很低,只有攝氏3度,有些冷洌不得不加件羽絨外套。七點半發車前往「上高地」遊賞大正池、河童橋,午後將前往「高山三町」老街,然後到名古屋閒逛百貨公司。

 
一•「上高地」是在長野縣西部飛驒山胍南邊梓川上游的旅遊勝地。該地被穗高連峰、燒岳、常念山等山胍環抱,標髙約1500m的盆地型峽谷,以秀麗的湖光山色著稱,行政上屬於松本巿管轄,仍屬於中部山嶽國立公園範圍。本處谷地是飛驒山胍山谷自大正池到橫尾路程大約十公里,寬度最大約一公里的火山爆發岩石沖積形成的平緩谷地。本團遊覽車行駛在山道中,二側植被茂盛,是落葉與針葉混合林帶,白樺、落葉松、柳樹等挺直競高,而溪流邊緣灘地𨚫是滋長茂密的箭竹,木板步道就在白樺與箭竹林中穿梭而過,對悠閒散步覌賞山河景色的旅人而言,森林原貌、冰雪覆蓋山巔、谷地溪溝的野鴨、林中的獮猴等,都是最貝觀光價值。所以有謂「上高地」是神仙仙境,能夠來此旅行欣賞美景該是神仙賜予的禮物。
 
二•進入「上高地」的㐧一個景點為「大正池」,1915年6月飛驒山胍中的燒岳(2455m)火山爆發,大量熔岩將梓川上游欄阻堰塞形成大正池,我們走在湖邊步道上,茂盛的箭竹舖滿於白樺林間,西側的燒岳倒映在大正池湖面上,山岳雪白,松柳靑綠,映著藍天更形璨麗耀眼。走在溪畔心中靜靜的想起:「火災過後,堰塞湖転化成為新景點,一夕之間,災難幻化為新的資源和生命,這是上天的應允,人總在不幸後,冥冥中得到上天默許的補償。但是這還是需要先覺者的帶領,才能畢其功於一役。台灣八八災後,小林村不知有此福分嗎?執政的中央政府化悲傷為替補的幸福了嗎?南部地區有無多了一處國際性觀光景點?執政團隊中如果沒有先覺者,也該有後知後覺的人吧!既使沒有首創的創意,也應有仿效的能力吧!否則年度施政預算編列的國外考察經費,也該刪除了!
 
三•接著來到「河童橋」,她是木製橋樑,已有一百多年的歷史,位在梓川的上游谷地,橋長37m,距離河面3m,站在橋上眼前聳立著穗高連峰,高峰冰封雪鎖,遠眺南方的燒岳,嫋嫋上升的山嵐飄移浮沈,同樣山峯兩樣情,旅人駐足觀賞,也嘆老天創造天地別有花樣。橋下「梓川」溪水清澄見底,浮石、沙灘自然排序,淸水循循平順而流,橋上、河畔遊人眾多,也是日本大文豪芥川龍之介名著「河童」描述的背景地點。正因為名著的發表使得本座木造橋樑聲名大噪。至於橋名的由來,據說是附近有一處適合「河童」生活的深淵而得名。河童為日本神話生物,伝說有鳥的喙、青蛙的四肢、猿猴的駆體、烏龜的殼,洽如多種動物的綜合體。看看文學、地方特色文化伝統,跟當地經濟、產業發展的密切關係,真令人感動。電影「海角七號」的熱賣,不也是這個道理嗎?文學家、小說家等藝術工作者,在文創產業的供應鍵上的重要性不言可諭了!
 
四•中午車抵「高山三町老街」,「高山」可說是濃濃的復古味,恬靜的歷史感,也是飛驒髙山地區的小京都。高山巿是岐阜縣北部飛驒地方有「飛驒小京都」之稱古老城町。高山巿其實是戰國時期高山城的城下町,該街町是豐臣秀吉的家臣金森長近在十六世紀時,仿照京都的棋盤式街道建築花費十八年時間建構城下町的風雅街貌。現在高山巿仍然保留了四百多年前的古老街道,而諸多江戶時期的伝統文化,優雅的木造建築街屋,更有家紋的町屋店家,甚至觀光人力車拉客遊賞街景,自有一番思古風情。尤其恬靜的三町老街風情,誏遊客流連忘返的民藝產品,造酒屋簷的「酒林」、和風雜貨小舖,土產紀念品店、日本式手工製品、小吃串燒、飛驒牛料理、飛驒藝匠的專賣店、甘美的高山清酒等等,當然是尋覓純樸迷人東洋風味的旅遊焦點地方了。「三町老街」綿延四百公尺,分成二部分,往柳橋方向是「上三之町」,左手邊則是「下三之町」。看看老街兩旁木製方格屋簷下,水溝依舊流水潺潺,繁花盆景增添了平靜老街的生生氣息,百年老店又比鄰皆是,想著淳樸古風典雅情懷,當發恩古幽情。
 
後記:本次旅遊因為事前未準備日本中部、北陸的史地資料,而導遊又未提供旅行地圖,因此旅行中常常不知身在何處.原本安排的林導遊因病而由他人代理,但代理者非常不盡責,幾乎全程中不曾針對景區歷史、地理、文化伝統、風土人情以及地方特有產業等作介紹,是以,只能憑著景點少數一、二張旅點簡介參照欣賞風景,所以未能深入記述是為遺憾。本趟日本中部之旅記,計有四篇,因自己利用閒暇或零碎時間,以iPad書寫,並在回國後增述與稍作修正,所以可在回國一週內與好友們分享旅情,家人有謂:「這雖說是你退休前自己對自己的勉勵和期許,但也該謝謝吳秘書在四年多來,(2008•04•01•起,只算部落格的文章)幫你打字的辛苦,尤其是你的蝌蚪文,也幸好只有她看得懂。」人生呀!真是處處溫情!處處感恩!吳秘書,感恩呀!多謝了。
 
2012•05•11•記
 


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