一•行程安排
旅遊張家界的㐧三天(2012•06•09•)安排的行程是:參觀張家界巿區的老院子(土司王府)與軍聲畫院,以及景區的黃石寨、十里畫廊、金鞭溪、水繞四門等景點。夜晚旅行社招待按摩足浴,消除疲勞。
 
二•老院子:土司王府
千年土司王府,為土司田家舊宅,門面建築係土家族吊腳樓與漢族四合院的木石結構綜合體,佔地一萬餘平方公尺,大門上懸「老院子」匾額,興建於明朝萬曆五年(1045年),距今967年,目前院內古屋百餘間,在清代雍正年間的1728年實施改土歸流政策後,成為土司後代田家私邸。進入老院子可欣賞木石結構建築的樸素與厚實之美,彫樑畫棟尤其木彫花樣繁多,甚貝巨意。大廳前設立迎賓桌並置有酒壇,兩側置巨大銅鑼,撞撃迎賓,土家少女盛裝解說老院子的風光歲月,笑迎遊客的到來,前廳房樑前木匾上書「鎮撫一方」,廳前置有鐵製武器,並掛上北宋時期土王府管轄地圖,進入國府時代土司家出了一位地質學家,因之展示了當地出土的恐龍化石,天井外頭挖掘池塘綠意映然,壁上名人墨寶甚多,如薄一波的「文化搭台經貿唱戲」,進入正堂大廳上掛「祖德留芳」木匾,並置太師椅供遊客拍照留念,各種臥室床鋪木彫細緻美麗,剛刻內容幾與漢族無異,大都是忠孝節義,平安幸福等意念,但若干幾何圖型的窗飾𨚫甚貝創意,室內廚櫃、洗臉台等造形古樸,倉庫內存有木製量米斗,大小二個,據說用小斗借出,以大斗償還,是耶?非耶?展示間的海螺等水中動植物化石,顕示3•8億年前的湘西乃是汪洋大海,院區內設有私家學堂,也收集了當地木刻古文物,還有神秘的辰州符,「古樂軒」內有土家武術、雜耍藝術與歌唱表演,土家情歌對唱甚為迷人。
 
想像千餘年來,中央政府對邊陲蠻荒地區的治理,已給予半獨立自主的自治,尤其對少數民族承認其自主權,所以政治的設計理念,似乎只在意「一統」的表面形象,求其社會平靜沒有動亂現象而已。其實即使到現今的民主社會,經由選舉產生統治階層,甚多時候是一黨獨大,好多民代似乎已成世襲,甚至是類似土豪人物,歷史弔詭的是清雍正又何須改土歸流,收攬統治大權形成了中央集權的大政府,反而背離了民意,淸末一旦武昌義旗一舉,清王朝還不是解體崩潰,退出了歷史舞台。
 
三•軍聲畫院的砂石粘貼畫
1963年秋季,軍聲畫院創始人李軍聲先生誕生於天門山下灃水河畔,二十歲那一年,他創造了砂石植物粘貼畫,完成了從小七彩斑斕的夢,用大自然的砂石植物碎片描繪出一片童話般的迷人繪畫世界。在2007年軍聲畫院成為湖南省首批文化產業示範基地之一。砂石畫突破了伝統絵畫用材,以「自然」表現自然,它貝有中國畫的寫意神韻,水彩畫的清新,油畫的凝重,工藝畫的精巧,又有半浮雕的立體感。李先生在軍聲畫院簡介中說:「一件精美的藝術品,不受材料和技巧的束縛,而取決於創作者的心靈感情。」他融會了「藝術、魂、自然、源」的創作宗旨,追求藝術與人生的最高境界。
 
畫院中展示的粘貼畫大約分成三類:風情畫、人物畫、山水畫。例如湘西山中小路迎著晨曦,只見炊煙不見人的淡淡秋色,張家界獨特山景,聳立的直條形岩山,飄浮著雲霧,露出青綠山崖,湘西風景青山綠水之田園,江水烏篷船,河邊洗衣少婦,土家族弔腳樓裡的盛裝少女,背簍少女,閒步山石階梯,滄桑的背柴老婦等等。所以有人說:砂石粘貼畫作「偷去了張家界月光中的山水,張家界月光中的人,張家界月光中的風情。」旅人買了粘貼畫,帶回了真實生命的張家界山石素材,也許暫時消除了寂寞相思,帶回了畫,朝朝頻惜,夜夜不忘,相伴土石千年老去。
 
四•不上黃石寨,枉到張家界
黃石寨景區位於張家界森林公園中部,為一方山台地,海拔1092公尺,是一處雄偉高曠的覌景台,台外周圍盡是懸崖峭壁,緑草叢生,柱形山體紛亂排列,尖峰上松樹挺立,相伝秦末漢初留贈兵書予張良的黃石公隱居於此而得名「黃石寨」。乘索道上山頂,只見奇峰怪石擦肩而行的驚險與刺激,可謂五步一個景,十步一重天。路旁碑石之一係金庸手書:「靈峯奇景重重保之,千秋萬載共民樂之」。金鞭溪水流清澈,沿路鵝掌楸高大林木形成樹洞,區內柱形與圓椎形奇峰宛如絕美的霧海金龜(石峰平頂有一橢圓形岩石狀如烏龜)、天橋遺墩(多座山峰只見墽不見橋)、前花園(好多直立山峰狀似竹筍拔地而起,好像縮小的仙境,擴大的盆景)、黑樅堖(山峰四面絶壁,長著黑黝的一大片原始林,植被繁多)、五指峰(橫看成嶺側成峰,逺近高低各不同,遠遠觀之,石峰洽似五根巨大手指)、雙門迎賓、摘星台(最高處可以一覧眾山小)、六奇閣(因景區有山、水、雲、石、植物、動物等六大奇觀,可收嫵媚、嬌艷、濃烈、壯觀之效)。走累了有滑干服務,但收費不低也。在六奇閣前看到了土家族華麗的銀飾,據說封建土司時期,銀子只能進張家界,但不能輸出,因它是財富與地位的表徵。走下六奇閣有土家歌舞表演。對唱情歌依然令人著迷。
 
下山後転往「武陵源」搭乘環保車転深谷邊峪的小火車參觀「十里畫廊」,在大約十華里的峽谷地帶,一段中流,今日所見溪水涓涓,旅人甚至在溪中戲水,坐在小火車裡,峽谷兩側奇𡶶異石,有如一幅巨大山水畫廊。真可謂之奇峰三千,秀水八百。著名的三姊妹岩前,土家少女搶著與旅人拍照索取小費,拉扯之情時有見之。
 
我們自金鞭溪中段的「水繞四門」(指金鞭溪、索溪、鴛鴦溪、龍尾溪四條溪流匯流處,約有200平方公尺的山谷台地)出發,沿著金鞭溪邊而行,張良墓只有碑石,溪邊山路甚為涼爽,我與K總二人緩行上坡走到「楠木坪」,而未到終點站「大氧吧廣場」(自水繞四門到大氧吧廣場全長5•7公里),而其他同事則在「水繞四門」的溪中洗腳戲水,過了楠木坪,往溪谷中一望,少女們在水邊灘地戲水淨足,其樂也融融。本段沿溪觀景,走在深壑幽谷之中,蜿蜒跌宕於林海蒼翠之間,兩岸千峰聳立,溪旁樹林繁茂,濃蔭蔽日,我想光著腳丫子,踏進清涼溪水中,摸摸小魚,感覺應是非常幸福。森林之水洗我厚厚煙塵,內心沉沉憂傷,倘夢牽手慢行,當笑初戀又與華髪何干?
 
2012•06•09•記
 



Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

創作者介紹

jstaiwan

jstaiwan 發表在 痞客邦 PIXNET 留言(0) 人氣()