在張家界的㐧五天,我們的旅遊安排是遊覽柱狀山岩巧奪天工的景中之景「袁家界」,天子山,賀龍公園,西海峰林,迷魂台,與搭乘百龍天梯覌賞阿凡達哈利路亞懸浮山的原型「乾坤柱」。午後二點多乘坐遊覽車回長沙巿,並且走訪黃興路步行街,感受長沙作為中國中部內需型都會的火熱商業氣息。

 
一•袁家界
伝說袁家界人的祖先,原是明末李自成闖王手下的一名袁姓部將,因兵敗率部隱居於此而得名。
 
「袁家界」地處張家界國家森林公園北部,是觀賞石英砂岩峰林奇觀的最佳去處。進入景區遠方峰林之間偶見土家族人的吊腳樓鑲嵌在石英砂岩之間。本景區以雄、奇、險、峻著稱。乘坐「百龍天梯」(世界㐧一梯)覌賞峰林奇景,百龍天梯位於武陵源景區,2002年4月投入營運,被譽為世界最高運行速度最快,載重最大的觀景電梯。乘坐電梯可欣賞張家界著名的絶景「神兵聚會」。她是由48座相對獨立的石峰組成,也是當年土家族起義領袖向大坤(天子)率兵聚眾的地方,故又稱「48大將軍岩」。在神兵聚會的山岩頂上,有些散落的吊腳樓,那是土家人世代耕種生活,繁衍生息的空中田園。百龍天梯氣勢恢宏,垂直高差335公尺,運行高度326公尺,利用三台雙層全暴露觀景電梯並列分體運行,將袁家界的「天下㐧一橋」、「迷魂台」、天懸白練以及烏龍寨、楊家界等美景推向觀光前台。
 
「迷魂台」,旅人登臨到此,眼前一幅天然山水畫卷似將迷去了靈魂。放眼環視,上百座石峰拔地而起,有如將軍列隊,有似一柱擎天,有的像小家碧玉,椎狀的山峯也似海螺出水,•••,駐足憑欄條狀石峰飄浮於雲霧之中,令人斷魂失魄,迷惘不知所歸也。
 
二•天子山
天子山風景區位於武陵源區西部,主峰1256公尺,而被譽為秀色天下絶,山髙人未識。景區內有「一座天橋、兩口天池、三座古廟、四個天門、五處飛泉、六個洞府、七個風景區、八十四座天然觀景台」而聞名。從這裡舉目遠眺,武陵源區千山萬壑盡收眼底,眼前一片石林,千姿百態,或如刀槍劍戟森立刺天,或似千軍萬馬奔騰而來,彌漫山腰谷底的雲霧,變幻莫測,著實令人急於尋幽探勝。據說明初社會動蕩,稅賦繁重,當地土司向大坤率領土家族人於明洪武22年(1389年)在紙馬塌揭竿而起,並被人民軍擁為「王天子」。大軍在此山區安營扎寨,後因兵敗而被官府鎮壓,但「天子山」卻因此而得名。武陵源景區,奇峰3103座,但多數位於天子山景區,因此天子山遂有峰林之王的美譽。天子山屬於石英砂岩峰林峽谷地貌。主要景點如:「賀龍公園」,賀元帥係張家界巿桑植縣洪家關鄉人,是中國解放軍創始人之一,建立銅像以表嵩敬。該銅像是迄今中國最大的單人銅座,在1986年10月落成供遊客參觀。
 
「雲青岩」是以賀龍的字命名的觀景台,台前大峽谷名曰「西海」,這裡是奇峰與松樹的海洋,也是雲海的故鄉。站在絶壁之巔,腑看峰林如戟,雲霧升騰飄移,簡直恍然如仙境。有輕風自谷底湧起,風徐徐撫過每寸肌膚,身外喧囂,體內浮躁、憂鬱、煩惱,皆隨風而去。西海左邊石峰遠望之如石船出海。「御筆峰,相伝是向王天子領軍批閱奏折之御筆,後兵敗縱馬跳下神堂灣(是一桶形凹地,四周刀切絶𤩹,谷深不可測)而斃,而御筆幻化為石峰。
 
古人詩句:「日幕鄉關何處是?洇波江上使人愁。」愁的是旅人魂靈迷失在這片奇山異水之間,心中満是幻化的奇峰異景,真實世界似被抽離了而找不到歸途。站在崖頂上思緒中總是潛存著石峰朦朧、簡潔與悲壯的蒼涼。旅人們還是裝滿著回憶,小心輕放心間,期誏心田充滿幻化的美景,植耕更深永不忘懷。
 
離開了張家界,遊覽車又再渡征塵,經過了四個多小時,於黃昏時回到長沙,並即転往黃興路步行街踏步慢行,從寧靜山水回落人間喧嘩,已經將近放空的思緒,又再度漂染了凡間塵埃。
 
2012•06•11•記


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